Marble Stone Guide

IMPORTANT PRODUCT INFORMATION PLEASE READ THIS GUIDE IN FULL BEFORE MAKING YOUR PURCHASE

Introduction

Thank you for choosing our Marble for your project. The beauty of natural stone is timeless and in order to achieve the best results, some care and attention is needed at the purchase and installation stages. This page is intended for guidance only; although experience has shown that our recommended fixing and maintenance products enhance the appearance and performance of your floor. A beautiful stone floor which adds value is a combination of good quality tiles appropriately selected, reliable sundry materials and the skill of the installer. We trust that by investing in the combination of all three, your floor will be a stunning addition to your property.

Best Practice

This guide outlines the basic principles of selecting fitting and maintaining natural stone floor tiles, but does not constitute full installation instructions as factors on site must be considered and responded to accordingly with reference to the full British Standards. We have attempted to present 'best practice' when installing natural flooring in non-commercial environments for pedestrian traffic to achieve the desired affect. The installer/fixer must be competent and is responsible for checking with the supplier or architect/designer that the stone and sundries supplied are correct as specified and are suitable, fit for purpose, prior to starting the project. Remember to carefully read the manufacturer's instructions and Health and Safety precautions on all packages of screeds, adhesives, grouts, sealants and under floor heating equipment before starting.

This information should be considered informal and non-binding. The products must be used according to local conditions, manufacturer's instructions, Weber's Tiling Solutions (should you use our recommended adhesives and grouts), Stone Federation of Great Britain's Code of Practice, M40 Specification and British Standards. For more detailed information, reference should be made to British Standards, specifically BS 5385 wall and floor tiling, BS 8000 and Weber's Publication "Weber Tiling Solutions", The Stone Federation of Great Britain Publication "Natural Stone Flooring - The Code of Practice for the Design and Installation of Internal Flooring:2005" For further details contact www.stone-federationgb.org.uk

Signing for Goods

  • Any delivery made must be checked before signing the delivery note, the carrier allows sufficient time for the crates to be visually inspected.
  • It is the responsibility of the person signing for the delivery or a named site contract or the purchaser to make a detailed inspection of the goods against the order confirmation within 3 days of receipt.
  • Notification of any major breakages, shortages or incorrect goods must be confirmed by email within 72 hours of receipt of the consignment
  • A copy of our terms and conditions are available on our website or are available upon request.
  • Broken or chipped tiles can be used for cuts and edge tiles, as we recommend ordering 10% extra for wastage and cutting.

Health and Safety - Manual Handling

  • We recommend that two people unload each crate to ensure that tiles do not fall over when packaging is cut.
  • Heavy duty gloves must be worn wherever possible.
  • Heavy tiles or packs must be lifted by at least 2 people where required (maximum load per person is 20kg)
  • All packaging should be removed before transporting tiles in order to avoid trip hazards
  • Before you lift, stop and think, position your feet correctly, adopt a good posture by bending the knees and keeping the back straight, get a firm grip, keep close to the load, don't jerk, move your feet instead of twisting.
  • Handle with care to avoid breakages.
  • Most adhesives/grouts contain cement therefore we recommend the use of latex gloves (COSHH sheets available on request)
  • NEVER rest a tile on its corner when lifting as this will damage the edges.

Marble - Samples, Characteristics and Colour

  • As Marble is a natural material and subject to variations in colour, patterns and texture our samples are only indicative
  • Natural variations such as crystal veins, fossils and shells are not faults or cracks
  • The tiles may arrive on site wet or damp which will result in a slightly darker colour. The tiles will revert to their original (lighter) shade when eventually fully dry
    The beauty of a Marble floor is only revealed once it has been laid, grouted and cleaned, then the subtle variations blend together
  • The manufacturing process means that tiles will often be dusty, which should be cleaned off with water before sealing

Storage

  • Marble tiles must be stored on their side with the back edge in contact with the floor, ensuring the front of the tile faces outwards
  • Marble should not be stored outside in cold frosty conditions. Best practise would be to unpack them, check them and store inside (such as a garage or shed)ยท At all times they but must be kept covered and dry
  • Grouts, Adhesives and sealants must be stored as per the manufacturer's instructions.
  • No returns of surplus grout, adhesive and sealant are accepted as we cannot guarantee how they have been stored on site.
  • Please double check the quantity of grouts, adhesives and sealants with your tiler/installer prior to confirming your order, as we can only advise you in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations based on the information you have supplied.
  • Any spare tiles left over after the job is completed should be safely stored for future use as replacement tiles.

Underfloor Heating - Electric Systems

  • Check you have the correct type of mat and the correct type/quantity of thermostats and controllers before you begin installation.
  • Always use flexible adhesive and grout, we recommend Weber Stoneset
  • Ensure that you follow the manufacturer's instruction for installation
  • A competent tiler will be able to lay the devimat, but it is essential that a qualified electrician connects it to your electrical supply
  • Do not turn on the underfloor heating until the adhesive has fully dried. See underfloor heating manufacturers instructions.
  • Movement joints required (see below)

Under Floor Heating - Hot Water Systems

  • Always consult the under floor heating manufacturer for specific instructions for commissioning the heating prior to and after tiling. Further information may be obtained from The Stone Federation. www.stone-federationgb.org.uk
  • Movement joints required (see below)

Movement Joints

  • Movement joints and expansion joints are required in wall and floor tiling as per British Standards
  • In general movement joints should be placed over existing and/or structural movement joints, where tiling abuts other materials, where tiling is continuous across junctions of different backgrounds, on suspended floors where flexing is likely to occur e.g. over supporting walls or beams, along all internal corners - vertically and horizontally, in large floors where perimeter joints are more than 10m apart, to divide areas into bays of 8-10m. (see adhesive manufacturer's instructions for further details)
  • Insert perimeter joints of 6mm around the edge of the room and across ALL door thresholds
  • Perimeter gaps can be covered with a Marble skirting or filled with Weber Stoneset Flexible NC Sealant (not general purpose mastic)
  • The use of Under Floor Heating increases the need for movement joints due to thermal expansion and contraction. They should be placed more frequently depending on site factors, for example:- bays of 7-8m.

Tanking Systems in Wet Rooms & Wet Areas

  • All wet rooms require Tanking Systems regardless of the type of tile used as grout is porous and allows water to permeate into the adhesive and substrate.
  • It is the responsibility of the property owner/architect/designer/project manager to contract an experienced and competent professional to install the appropriate tanking system ready to tile onto.
  • We recommend a tile backer board system for shower areas (i.e. Aquapanel), especially behind where the Marble meets the tray

Concrete Floor Substrates

  • Check that the substrate has been allowed to fully dry for the correct period
  • Check drying time with the screed manufacturer and British Standards (refer to BS 5385 Part 5)
  • General guidance - British Standards BS8203 suggest "one day of drying should be allowed for each millimetre of screen thickness for the first 50mm, followed by an increasing time for each millimetre above this thickness"
  • For Guidance on Screed thickness, please refer to the Stone Federation Code of Practice (4.1)
  • Builders laying a concrete screed designed to be tiled onto should prepare a surface regularity of SR1 i.e. max 3mm gap under a 2m straightedge
  • Where a fall is required for water to drain properly, it is the responsibility of the person laying the screed to ensure that the required fall angle is allowed for in the screed.
  • It is not reasonable to expect a tiler to create the required fall angle if asked to tile onto a flat surface, as the tiler will be limited by the maximum thickness of the adhesive bed (Stoneset thick bed adhesive can be built up to 25mm thick max, Stoneset Flexible and Rapidset bed 6mm max)
  • In wet rooms where a fall is required, consider using a pre-formed shower tray tile backer board (such as Dukka Board)

Preparation

  • Ensure that the correct adhesive & grouts are used for the substaright you are tiling onto.
  • Ensure surface is suitable for tiling onto by scraping away paint/paper, priming, removing tiles and cleaning etc. where necessary
  • Check that the substrate has a surface regularity of SR1 i.e. max 3mm gap under a 2m straightedge
  • The tiler should comment on the suitability of the substrate and recommend whether uneven surfaces should be levelled with a suitable self levelling compound

Wooden Substrates

  • Flexible Adhesive and Grout must be used and manufacturer's instructions followed regarding thickness of adhesive bed
  • Ensure the timber structure is designed to take the increased weight of the Marble tiles.
  • Create a solid, rigid substrate to tile onto and minimise flex and movement.

    Either:-
    • Overboard existing floorboards (if in good condition and screwed to the joists) with WPB plywood board (water boil proof) or a suitable tile backer board.
    • Use WPB plywood board which is between 15-18mm thick in accordance with the adhesive manufacturer's instructions.
    • Site factors may require the use of an uncoupling/ separating/debonding membrane, which is always good practice
    Or:-
    • Remove existing floorboards, The Stone Federation's Code of Practice recommends 2 layers of 9mm WBP plywood (minimum) screwed at right angles to each other (cross laid on top of each other) and screwed to the joists at 200-300mm centres (stagger joints and stagger boards)
    • Adhere an uncoupling/ separating/debonding membrane on top (i.e. Ditra Mat) according to the Manufacturer's instructions. It may be necessary to increase the thickness of the plywood if heavy loads are anticipated or if the joists are spaced more widely than normal or if using tiles larger than 400x400mm.
    • All plywood sheets or tile backer boards must be screwed into the, joists, floorboards and noggins at 200-300mm centres with countersunk stainless steel screws.
  • It is important to follow the manufacturer's advice regard the priming and acclimatisation of the plywood surfaces
  • An uncoupling/ separating/debonding (i.e. Ditra Mat) membrane may be required where two different substrates meet (i.e. concrete & wood)
  • See British Standards BS5385 Part 5: section 3.3.4 for further information regarding ventilation etc

Walls

  • Always check (preferably with the substrate supplier) that surface can support the weight of the tiles. For guidance the weight of Marble tiles should be taken as follows:- 10mm thick = 30kg/m2 20mm thick = 60kg/m2
  • Plasterboard (not skimmed) - minimum board thickness should be 12.5mm. Boards should be screwed to appropriate framing and battening with noggins used for stiffening where necessary. The weight of tiling on plasterboard should not exceed 32kg/m2
  • Plaster - the maximum weight of tiling that can be supported by a dry plaster background is 20kg/m2
  • Painted or plaster surfaces are generally unsuitable substrates for Marble tiles so we recommend the use of a suitable thickness of WBP Plywood or in wet areas a tile backer board (screwed to the wall and into the battens as per manufacturer's instructions).

    Tile Backer Boards:.
    • Wedi Tile Backer Board, can take up to 40kg/m2 depending on thickness check www.wedi.co.uk for details)
    • Aquapanel is ready keyed to take tiles up to 50 kg/m2 as soon as the boards are installed (check www.knaufdrywall.co.uk)
    • Sand and Cement Render is a good base for fixing Marble tiles up to a thickness of 15mm (approximate to 38-45kg/m2 ) The Render must be reinforced with stainless steel EML in order to support 50kg/m2. New renders need a minimum of two weeks to dry out.
  • Please check/follow British Standard for methods of mechanical fixing when tiling over a height of 3 metres.
  • Solid bed fixing for walls is also recommended. Buttering the back of the tile is a technique which requires smearing a thin layer of adhesive to the back of each tiles and pressing the tiles into the ribbed adhesive bed on the wall, so no voids remain under the tiles

Installation

  • Shuffle tiles from all crates and keep all the colours as random as possible and thoroughly mix variegated tiles.
  • We only recommend the Weber Stoneset range of adhesives and grouts
  • Only use Adhesive colours that we recommend, as our recommendation will vary from Marble to Marble.
  • Coverage rates and site conditions (temperature) must follow manufacturer's recommendations (remember we do not accept returns)
  • Ensure you have the correct tools (i.e. a diamond wet-wheel cutter and relevant notched trowels, rubber mallet etc)
  • Ensure that the correct face is laid face up (saw marks generally indicate the bottom of the tile).
  • Spread adhesive with notched trowel in straight lines as per manufacturer's site work instructions
  • Bed the tiles firmly into the adhesive with a slight sliding or twisting action, to ensure a good contact and give an overall even surface
  • Ensure that tiles are laid on a solid bed of adhesive, especially under corners (aim for 100% coverage with no voids)
  • Large tiles may need to have adhesive buttered on the back as well.
  • Do not dab or blob fix each corner of the tiles as voids in the adhesive layer are indicative of potentially weak areas.
  • Adhesive bed thickness is usually 3-6mm, if thicker adhesive bed thickness required (up 25mm) use Stoneset Thick Bed Adhesive
  • 10mm thick floor tiles are only suitable if laid onto a solid floor i.e. concrete (not wood)

Grout Joints and Grouting

  • Apply grout as per manufacturer's instructions and time scales
  • Only use grout colours that we recommend, as our recommendation will vary from Marble to Marble
  • Ensure you have the correct tools (e.g. rubber float, emulsifying pad, clean sponge etc)
  • Best Practice - test a small trial area first, and allow to dry, to make sure you are satisfied with the results as different grouts contain different pigments
    The general principle is the larger the tile, the bigger the grout joint
    • Grout joints can be 3mm for 400 x 400 mm tiles, 305x305mm tiles or smaller
    • Larger format tiles should generally be laid with a 3-5mm grout joint
    • Random patterns may require grout joints between 3-10mm (refer to our Pattern Sheets)
    • Do not butt joint tiles
  • When grouting, wipe the grout across the whole surface of the tile rather than solely in the joints (to avoid "picture framing")
  • Ensure all grout excess and residues are removed diagonally with the correct type of grout float; emulsifying pad and sponge (if unsure
    please call Weber's technical helpline).
  • The grout in the grout joints should be level with the surface of the tile and should not sink significantly
  • All natural Marble will require impregnating with Lithofin Stainstop prior to grouting to prevent staining and to stop grout sticking to the tile face
  • Recommendations for sealing and protecting Marble
  • All natural stone tiles need protection by impregnating with a silicon-based sealant when laid internally
  • We only recommend Lithofin Stainstop for this purpose
  • You must follow Lithofin's Instructions on their packaging, please contact us or Lithofin for full Method Statements
  • Our general advice would be to ensure the tiles are clean and dry prior to treating
  • Once the tiles are laid, apply one application of Lithofin Stainstop prior to grouting, and finally after grouting apply second application of Lithofin Stainstop, to the point of saturation
  • Do not allow any pools of Lithofin Stainstop to remain on the surface, they should be mopped up
  • Do not permit any foot traffic on the floor until the bedding is fully dry (see manufacturer's instructions)
  • If other trades on site, protect stone with 15mm ivory board (e.g. tentex)
  • Do not use acidic, abrasive or whitening chemicals on the Marble such as bleach, Cif, Flash, Mr Muscle, white spirit etc etc.
  • Stubborn grout residue can be removed with Lithofin Powerclean (prior to the second application of Stainstop)

Recommendations for cleaning and maintaining

Introduction

All floor coverings require some care to maintain their appearance and Marble is no different. Unlike most other floor
finishes, Marble is not just on the surface, but the whole way through and therefore any wear will not have a detrimental effect, but add to the natural patina and beauty of the stone. We recommend proven cleaning materials that have been tried and tested and are inexpensive to use. For commercial applications, please contact us for a method statement detailing the recommended maintenance regime.

The Right Mop

We don't recommend you use an old fashion cloth or cotton mop, as these usually end up making the floor very wet and
smeary and just move the dirt around. We recommend a sponge mop or even better a modern flat mop with removable & washable covers.

The Right Stone Soap

  • We only recommend Easycare Stone Soap by Lithofin for regular cleaning and Lithofin Wexa for stubborn marks (such as black rubber sole marks) and less frequent intensive cleaning.
  • For normal cleaning of the floor use Easycare diluted with warm water as directed on the container
  • For ease of use, keep a spray bottle of pre-diluted Easycare to hand to clean up as you go along
  • Clean up any spillages immediately with a squirt of Easycare and wipe clean (especially acidic foods such as wine, vinegar & lemon juice)
  • Stubborn marks or discolouration can be treated with Wexa, follow the manufacturer's instructions and rinse thoroughly (Wexa works best when diluted)
  • Limescale can be removed using Lithofin Powerclean
  • Should your floor require a spring clean every 3-5 years, apply diluted Wexa with an old fashion scrubbing brush and a nylon non-scratch sponge, follow the manufacturer's instructions and rinse well
  • After a thorough spring clean of the whole floor with Wexa, it is best practise to top up the sealant by re-appling the Lithofin Stainstop (open windows for good ventilation)

The Right Methods

  • The best way to maintain the beauty of your Marble floor is to remove dirt, not spread it around
  • To do this, we recommend that you sweep the floor with a soft broom or vacuum cleaner that does not scratch, before mopping.
  • Method 1 - When mopping use a bucket with two compartments; Rinse the mop in one compartment to remove dirt and then soak the clean water which contains a capful of Easycare (Stone Soap). If smears appear, dilute the Easycare with more water or Buff with a dry mop
  • Method 2 - spray the diluted Easycare onto a flat mop, clean the floor, change the cover when it gets dirty and put the used removable
    covers in the washing machine so they are ready for the next time.
  • And ensure you have sufficient entrance matting to stop dirt being brought into the house in the first instance

Please Note

  • Marble will be affected by Food Acids such as wine, orange juice and vinegar etc.
  • Any spillages must be mopped up immediately and cleaned with "Lithofin Easycare".
  • If the food acid is left on the Marble it may dull the surface, which is only seen from certain angles.
  • Although these areas will gradually fade in time as the Marble is walked over to create a natural patina, you may wish to clean the Marble with "Lithofin Care Seal" by adding a capful into the bucket of diluted Easycare which will add a sheen to the floor surface.
  • One method of protecting Marble from acid etching is to apply a surface sealer. Unfortunately, this application will change the appearance, colour, texture and slip resistance of the stone and is not recommended in wet areas.

WARNING

  • DO NOT USE ANY HOUSEHOLD OR COMMERCIAL CLEANING AGENTS OR CHEMICALS ON MARBLE SURFACES. THIS INCLUDES ANY PRODUCTS SUCH AS BLEACH, ACIDIC CLEANING AGENTS, ABRASIVE CLEANING AGENTS, WHITE SPIRITS, AND OIL BASED CLEANING AGENTS AND WAXES, AND HOUSEHOLD SOAPS
  • Therefore, do not use products like Flash, Cif, Mr Muscle or Cillit Bang and never use Limescale Remover on Marble
  • Do not use any homemade remedies for cleaning natural stone such as lemon juice and salt or soda crystals

Stone Cleaning Machines

If you have purchased a large area of natural stone flooring, it's wise to invest in an automatic scrubbing machine such as Cimel's Turbolava (www.cimel.com). Your tiler may also offer a renovation service using a scrubbing machine (with 3M white nylon pads & wet-and-dry vac).